I have to share my joy. I am almost overflowing with it!
I have spent the majority of today in Bordeaux center city.
After taking my time getting ready to go out, I got on the Tram determined to find the Public Garden that is on my map. I knew I would be able to find it, it just took the courage to get on a new tram line and wander through unfamiliar territory. It was not nearly as bad a journey as I thought, but I will start at the beginning.
By the time I was out the door it was almost noon. I had hoped to get out sooner, but my vanity kept me longer than I would like to admit. It was a beautiful day though, so I figured it was better late than never.
Once in Bordeaux I decided to go to le Marche des Grands Hommes and get lunch. It was a simple lunch that I knew I wanted to make a picnic out of. I got a baguette (well, half of one), a small bundle of cheese, fruit juice and a small bag of dried apricots. I could have made it a bit more french if I added some wine and perhaps a bit of sausison (I am not sure how to spell it, but its like summer sausage), but I didn't want to spend too much.
Once I had my food I made my way to another tram line that I have never used. I realize it might sound silly, but it was completely strange to be boarding at the stop! The trams all look the same, they take the same time and ticket, and yet the simple fact that this was NOT tram B totally shook me. I stood by the door anxiously, even though I was only going one stop. As the doors opened I walked out quickly, determined to look familiar with the place. I don't know if it is true, but I figured that no matter how safe the neighborhood, I would be safer if I didn't let on that I was completely out of my familiar surroundings. This is also funny, since the Jardin is only one stop further than I have ever gone. You can practically see it from one of my favorite walks! None the less, it felt completely new to me, so I was being extra careful.
The area surrounding the Jardin is anything BUT dangerous. It looks even more safe that my previous favorite streets. The houses are all big and clean and there are less shops. The streets are wide and beautiful, and I could see the Jardin gates from the tram stop. I walked confidently, happily, through the gates and immediately felt at peace. The walks are gravel and wide. The grass is green and there are flowers blooming. The sun came out and I was able to take off my coat (something I have not really be able to do since arriving in Bordeaux)! I found a little bench off to the side facing the pond. It is a cute little pond. I almost couldn't tell if it is a pond or a river, since it winds around a bit, but it is really a pond. In the middle is a little island that reminded me of the french version of Duck Island (like, in Boston... is that the right name?). It was beautiful.
The sun again went behind clouds, so I left my bench to wander a bit more around the garden. I walked around the whole thing, trying out ever path, every viewpoint. I felt a lot like a giddy tourist doing it, but I figured that is exactly what I was, so there is no shame in it :) I stopped every few steps to take more pictures, though I am always a bit disappointed. No matter how good my camera, it cant really capture the FEELING in the area. Either that, or I am just a terrible photographer. I did take pictures though. I took them for me, and I also took them because, no matter how incorrect they feel for me, they do allow me to really share the experience here with those of you who are not here. So I hope you enjoy them as well :)
I wandered until I found another bench that seemed pretty. This time facing the other side of the pond. I decided I would try to write a few letters. A good plan, I know, but the wind was against me and I soon decided to walk a bit more, then head back to Bordeaux center and find a cafe to finish my letters.
As I was making my way back, I realized that without thinking about it I was heading to the same cafe as I have always gone. Its not that they are particularly cheap (though they are not that bad) or that their cappuccino is very good. Its mostly because I have been there before, and it has a beautiful view of the Cathedral. So while those are not BAD reasons to be there, I bet I could find a cheaper cafe with better cappuccinos. If I wanted to. Right now, I like being familiar with the place. When I have explored the city more, and filled myself with wandering, then I shall look for another cafe.
I have been near the Cathedral de St. Andre many times, and have been inside once, but today I had the most amazing urge to spend some time just sitting inside. So I went.
Let me just side note for a second. The ability to "just go" is completely new to me. I don't know that I have ever been STOPPED from doing something I wanted, but here there seems to be an added... I don't know, expectation? It seems as if the feeling here is: If your not doing what you want to be doing.... then whats the point? I don't know if this is just for me, or that it comes from being in a new situation, but there you go. I have been delighting in my ability to just go and do what I want. I don't mean this in the way that now I will try and get away with anything. Rather, I am really feeling the freedom to go and sit in a cafe for 2 hours, or to go to the Cathedral and admire the stained glass. Its what I want to do, so I am going to do it!
But back to the Cathedral. The last time I went in I was with the boys. They seemed a bit impatient to be gone, so I only had the briefest moment to admire the architecture. This time, I took my time. Looking around I realize how much I DON'T know about the reasons why it is built that way. My one course in Art History did teach me appreciation, and then there is always comparing it to the BA Cathedral that adds the ability to appreciate. But the ability to appreciate is VERY different than understanding. And that is one thing that I wish I did have. There were a good number of people there, sitting or standing by different saints and lighting candles. I am not one to pray through a saint, but I got a new sense of how important it is to some people. I don't know the denomination (if there is one) of this Cathedral, but it houses little sanctuary type things in a semicircle behind the alter. Each sanctuary is for a different Saint of some sort of another. Though I took pics of my favorite parts of the Cathedral, they didn't really turn out, since the lighting is pretty bad in there.
After leaving the Cathedral I came back to the dorm. I had been walking a while, and Dibb needed me back so that we could do laundry (I had the "jetons pour la laver). I did stop at our local super market to get some food for tomorrow though, which is always fun. Just like the woman in my book, I think I really enjoy the simple pleasure of eating the French food. I do make a lot of American style food back in my dorm, but it always has a French twist. Grilled cheese sandwiches... with sausisson! Or soup and bread.... but the bread is a baguette! So, I love it.
Tomorrow we have school. I had an interesting time calling Vesta (the Russian woman I went to the museums with) to find out the homework that is due tomorrow. Not only did I forget the word for "homework" but the moment she started to say numbers my mind blanked. We made it through though, and with a friendly "tout a l'heur" we hung up. I have now done the homework and am feeling a TON better prepared for class. I have to say though... as I wandered the streets and talk to random store clerks and cafe servers, I feel like taking a day in the city is better education than the class. My dream would be to have a friend who could not speak English, but who was fluent in French who would have the patients to take me everywhere and go with me where I wanted and just talk! Maybe I will make such a friend, but not so far.
Well, that is all that happened today! Tomorrow (after school) I hope to go to town and work out some bank stuff, and then explore the garden that I realized is even closer than the city! Who would have thought that Peixotto would have a public garden :)
Oh, I can't wait! You know you are going to have to take me all of those places, right? I have to see them!! It sounds so fabulous. Oh, and what is the weather like? Should I bring my heavy coat or will I not need it?
ReplyDeleteI want to thank you for taking the time to write so much and post the pictures. What you write about is perfect! Keep this coming! And some pics of the shops and cafes would be great, too.
ReplyDeleteI love you and miss you!
Dad
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ReplyDeleteGeneva,
ReplyDeleteAfter getting your email today I felt like re-reading some of your posts.
Just wanted to tell you that this is my very favorite "episode" of your adventures in France. You wrote this so beautifully that I could imagine myself in your shoes stepping onto the new tram line, and I could hear that laughing duck. :) It made me remember a time when I chose the same, not-fabulous cafe more than once in a strange country-- how that little bit of familiarity was a good thing. And your writing helped me feel what it would be like standing in the back of a quiet, dark French cathedral (I'm thinking it might have been a little chilly?), wondering what those people lighting candles were thinking about and praying for...
Your blog is the next best thing to being in France. :)